Entry Door System Installation Guides

Table Of Contents

• Guide 1: How to Install a Replacement Door
• Guide 2: Installing Doors with Weathermate™ Housewrap Plus
• Guide 3: How to Stain Fiberglass Entry Systems

Guide 1: How to Install a Replacement Door

If you're getting ready to replace your entry door, there's very little question that a steel or fiberglass entry system is a good choice. A significant part of the heat loss in a home occurs through the doors and windows, and an insulated entry system not only provides better R-values than a wood door, it can also do a better job of preventing air infiltration.

This document describes the basic procedures in installing a steel or fiberglass entry system. Keep in mind that the procedures may vary for different brands of systems. Wherever those instructions differ, always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

In this document you will find information about:

• Entry System Features
• Installing an Entry System

Entry System Features

• Steel and fiberglass entry systems are almost identical, except for the door itself. Steel and fiberglass entry systems are usually factory pre-hung and weather-stripped. Wood entry doors may come pre-hung or where the door, frame, and hardware all come separately and have to be assembled. As a rule, pre-hanging provides a more weather-tight system.
• Steel and fiberglass doors are very similar, too. They consist of a frame, made up of vertical stiles and horizontal rails, covered with a skin of either steel or fiberglass. The door is filled with rigid foam insulation, typically either polystyrene or polyurethane. The R-values of steel and fiberglass doors range from R-7 to R-15–compared to a 1-3/4" wood door, which is approximately R-2. They provide much better insulation value.
• The primary difference between steel and fiberglass doors is the skin. Both may be molded to simulate a real wood door, but fiberglass doors can be stained and varnished, whereas steel doors are primed and painted. If you want a wood look, fiberglass is the best choice. If you plan to paint the door, steel is probably better, if for no other reason simply because steel is typically less expensive.
• The frame may be steel or wood; wood is most common in residential entry systems.

Installing An Entry System

• To install a steel or fiberglass entry system, first remove the brick mold from around the door on the outside. Then remove the casing from around the door on the inside. If you remove the interior casing carefully, you may be able to reuse it.
• Take the old door off its hinges, then use a reciprocating saw to cut through the nails that hold the door jamb to the wall framing. Remove the door jamb, then remove the threshold and pry up the original sill so the sub-floor is exposed.
• Unpack the new entry system. There may be skid boards or other framing attached to protect the system during transit. Lay the door on a pair of sawhorses and remove any protective materials. Some brands have pre-hanging clips that keep the door aligned and closed–if so, do not remove them.
• Run beads of caulking along the floor where the threshold/sill will rest. From the outside, center the bottom of the unit in the opening and tilt it up into place.
• Plumb the hinge-side jamb with a level, then secure the hinge jamb to the wall framing temporarily with 3"-long drywall screws, about 2" below the top and center hinges.
• Leave a space between the jamb and the wall stud. Go inside the house through another door so you can shim the unit.
• Shim the hinge jamb directly behind all three hinges so it is plumb. Then repeat the process on the lock-side jamb, shimming at the top, bottom, and just above and below the strike plates. Be careful not to allow the unit to be twisted; the inside edge of the jamb should be flush with the interior wall surface at all points. DO NOT SHIM BETWEEN THE HEAD JAMB AND THE WALL HEADER.
• Place a carpenter's square at the corners to make sure the unit is square; if not, add shims below the threshold/sill. Go back outside and temporarily secure the latch-side jamb with 3" drywall screws at the top and bottom of the unit.
• Check again to make sure the unit is plumb, square, and not twisted, and make any necessary adjustments. Drive 3" drywall screws through the hinge jamb 2" above the top and bottom hinges, and 2" above and below the center hinge.
• Remove the pre-hanging clips (if present), and open the door to make sure it operates properly. Go inside and close the door, then check the latch side of the door to make sure the gap between the door and jamb is even all along the length of the door. If not, the unit is out of square. Remove one or both of the screws and adjust the shims to make the gap even.
• From the outside, check to make sure the weather-stripping along the latch side of the jamb makes uniform contact with the door from the top to the bottom. If not, the unit is twisted. Remove one or both of the latch-side screws and adjust the jamb in the opening until it is straight. Drive two more 3" drywall screws through the latch jamb, spaced evenly between the first two screws.
• Check the bottom of the door to make sure the door sweep makes even contact with the threshold across the entire width of the door. Adjust the threshold.
• Some entry systems come with long security screws that are driven through the hinges and jamb and into the wall framing. If so, four screws will be missing from the jamb leaf of the hinges. Pre-drill the jamb, then drive the security screws. Double-check the clearances all around the door; if they are not even, adjust the security screws to even the gap.
• Inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don't stuff it too tightly. Replace the interior casing.
• On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where it meets the siding. Finish the door according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Guide 2: Installing Doors with Weathermate™ Housewrap Plus

Download Installation PDF Guide -

Visual Guide Instructions Include:

• Flashing A Door
• Air Sealing Windows And Doors
• Housewrap Installation
• Flashing A Rectangular Window
• Flashing A Round Top Window
• Flashing Penetrations

Weathermate™ Weather Barrier System Components

Weathermate Housewrap - Plus	Great Stuff Pro Window & Door	Weathermate Sill Pan	Weathermate Door Pan
Weathermate Construction Tape	Weathermate Straight Flashing		Weathermate Flexible Flashing

Manufacturer's Website: www.weathermate.com | Telephone: 1-866-583-BLUE (2583)

Guide 3: How to Stain Fiberglass Entry Systems

Important:

Please read and understand the entire staining procedure before attempting to finish the door. Be sure to follow the stain and top-coat manufacturers detailed application instructions on the product label.

Material Required

Find a well-lit staining location that is dust-free, well ventilated and within the climate conditions recommended by the stain/top-coat manufacturer.

Coatings and Accessories:

• Mineral spirits or acetone
• One pair of rubber gloves
• Lint-free rags or cheese cloth (recommended)
• Stir sticks
• 2" wide foam brush
• Masking tape
• Safety razor blades
• Stain
  • High-quality, opaque (non-transparent), heavily pigmented, oil-based stain (recommended)
  • Gel stains can also be used
  • Semi-transparent stains are not recommended
• High-quality, exterior grade, UV stabilized polyurethane sealant (satin or low gloss)
• 2-1/2"- wide china bristle brush

1) How to Start

Doors can be stained either hanging in the opening or removed from the frame (recommended). Should you remove the door, take care to protect it from damage. Sidelites will need to be finished vertically. To remove the door from the frame, use a center punch and hammer. Strike the hinge pin from the bottom until it pops up (for outswing units - hinge leaf must be removed from the door). Drive the hinge pin as far as possible with the punch. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the hinge pin and, while twisting, pull the pin out. Remove all door hardware.

2) Preparing the Door Surface

Important: Dust, debris and other surface contaminants can accumulate on the surface of the door. Therefore, to achieve best results and maximum coating adhesion, wipe/clean all surfaces of the door panel(s) and sidelite(s) thoroughly with acetone or mineral spirits. Mask (tape) off all surfaces that will not be stained.

3) Staining the Door

Use a high quality, heavily pigmented, oil-based stain (recommended). Gel stains can also be used. Before starting, and occasionally throughout the project, stir the stain until the texture is creamy. We recommend that before starting, you try staining a small inconspicuous area of the door to achieve the desired color.

One coat of stain is required with the recommended (per manufacturer’s instructions) dry time needed between sides. The stain should be applied in the following order working on one small section of the door at a time.

Finishing Order: (Refer to Image to the Right)

#1: Panels and sticking (moulding profiles)

#2: Vertical center areas (mullions)

#3: Horizontal areas (rails)

#4: Outside vertical areas (stiles)

#5: Edge of door or stiles

Staining:

1. Put on gloves and prepare your materials.

2. Stir stain thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating bubbles and do not shake the stain container.

3. Working in the specified order and individual section, dip the foam brush into the stain then use the rim of the container to release any excess. Use the foam brush to apply the stain onto the section. Using a cloth, rub the stain into the embossed wood-grain ensuring complete and even coverage. Stop between sections to tidy up the perimeter with a rag and mineral spirits. Clean edges will help define the individual components of the door. If preferred, the subtle color variation found in wood can be replicated by selective removal of the stain. Using a rag or cheese cloth, gently rub the surface removing very small amounts of stain. Apply varying levels of pressure and work in the direction of the grain. Excessive pressure will remove too much stain.

4. Once the door has been completely stained, check for any drips. While the stain is still wet, lightly brush the entire surface of the door with a china bristle brush. Use long strokes and work in the direction of the grain to even out color and achieve consistency.

5. Let the first stained surface dry, per the stain manufacturer’s recommended drying time, before proceeding to the second side.

6. If you prefer a darker appearance, repeat staining steps one through five only after first coat is completely dry. Do not sand between staining coats.

4) Sealing or Applying the Top-Coat

The top-coat or sealant for your door is very important and required for weatherability. It protects the stained door from the elements and makes the door surface washable. Be sure that the stain coating is completely dry and then apply a high-quality, UV stabilized, clear exterior polyurethane coating (satin or low gloss) – used for any normal exterior wood application.

1. Stir top coat thoroughly using smooth strokes, avoid creating bubbles and do not shake the top coat container.
2. Do not overload the brush. Dip the end of the brush into the coating and gently slide the flat side of the brush against the edge of the container to remove the excess.
   Note: We recommend that all 6 sides (front and back faces plus all four edges) be sealed to eliminate moisture absorption. The bottom of your door panel(s) may contain a factory installed weatherstripping (sweep) which is sealed prior to installation. Failure to observe this recommendation may void the warranty.
3. Apply with even gentle strokes. Press hard enough to flex the bristles just a little and then pull the brush gently along the door’s surface.
4. As you apply the sealant, pull the brush quickly along the area two or three times lightly to even out the brush strokes.
5. Allow the first coat to dry completely (follow manufacturer’s recommendations) and apply at least one more coat using the same steps as above. A minimum of two coats is required for complete protection and the door should be resealed annually to ensure lasting protection of the finish.
6. After both sides of the door have been top-coated (twice) and are completely dry, remove the paper and tape from the glass and protected surfaces.
7. Clean the glass with window cleaner and remove any finishing materials from the glass with a safety razor.
8. Replace door back into frame.